THE SECRET :
I don’t think people talk about the beauty of clear enough! In my experience it's been something that a lot of stylists don’t even know about or don’t utilize it properly.
Clear can be used in so many ways to provide shine, close the cuticle when the lift seems perfect, or when someone prefers a zero pigmented gloss!
WHAT IS THE BIGGEST MYSTERY ABOUT CLEAR?
A PERMANENT clear with 20 volume can actually help lift out fashion colors and other semi- permanent depositing colors. Because most fashion colors are oil based, it’s best to use a clear that is also oil based.
What about an acidic clear? Something that only deposits and is super shiny. When do we need it and why?
In every acidic glossing line the higher the level, the lower the pigment. So, when looking at lets say, a 9 violet vs a level 5 violet , it is similar to looking at a fancy lilac cocktail vs a glass of wine. The difference is that significant. This is why it's so important to gloss on level or below your lift. Anything above does not have the capability to deposit onto something darker. If you are having trouble seeing a shift in tone with your glosses, chances are you aren’t glossing with a low enough level.
SO, WHAT WOULD BE THE PURPOSE OF CLEAR WHEN WORKING WITH BLONDES?
A lot of people might argue that you can just use a lighter level of gloss, but here’s the issue: If my lift is technically an 9 with 8 variables, then a level 9 gloss is going to be way too light to make a shift in tone. By adding clear you are essentially keeping the pigment load of an 8, but lightening the level a bit in order for it not to deposit too dark. This allows a buffer for those super porous level 9 pieces.
When hair is too porous, it will suck up ash quickly. It doesn’t matter the level of lift. That is why you can sometimes see super warm lift in darker levels turn muddy quickly, the answer is porosity. Clear can help control this.
It is hard to say just how much clear to add. That really depends on porosity and the end goal. You can add as little or as much as you think you need up to ¾ of the formula. If you need more than that, I’d suggest adjusting your gloss to something lighter. You can always grab a paper towel and try it out on there. It’s a great way to see the pigment load on white.
LET’S TALK ABOUT A POSSIBLE SCENARIO USING CLEAR WITH A BRUNETTE:
Brunette’s need a heavier pigment load almost always. The amount of warmth in the lift is obviously significantly higher. Most lines don’t include every level in every tone. There can be a big jump in numbers. Clear is really helpful in this scenario. Any of the stronger tones plus clear can create an absolutely beautiful result. The rb’s in shades eq are stunning, but limited. I use clear a lot with this type of scenario.
The other situation would be an issue with a lot of copper or red in your lift. Dropping your gloss low enough might result in a pretty dark finish. There are scenarios where I’ve added a level 3 or even 1 into a gloss and also added clear to lighten that pigment a smidge. Again, when things are porous it's ok to test something with extra clear. The worst that can happen is you have to gloss again darker. I think too many times we think we have 1 shot in getting it right. It is always better to go lighter when you're unsure and go back in after with something more fitting. Going too dark initially will create an entirely different mess.
Some color lines don’t have a translucent finish. They are more opaque and can be a little harsh for a glossing situation. Clear is a great way to sheer something out, and soften the finish.
Overall, it’s important to know why you are doing something. Adding clear is not necessary for every situation, but it is a terrific tool to utilize when dealing with porosity or needing a heavier pigment to cancel and/or enhance a gloss!
When mixing clear in, just use it like any other shade and then add your developer. Most every line has clear available. If you weren’t aware or have never tried this trick, give it a go!
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