How many times have you had someone sit in your chair and say, “I don’t want anything warm”?
It’s a common request and totally understandable. But here’s the thing: that phrase doesn’t always mean what it sounds like.
Let’s be real, trusting someone with your hair takes a lot. Hair is personal. It’s a huge part of your identity and something you wear with you every single day. One wrong tone, placement, or cut, and it can shake someone’s confidence in a big way.
That’s why building trust with your client is everything.
I usually say it takes around three visits before a stylist truly understands how a client’s hair behaves, how it lifts, reacts to color, and lives outside the salon. That’s where the relationship starts to deepen.
Here’s a stat that might surprise you: only 17% of clients return after their second appointment. That’s why it’s so important to feel grounded and prepared when working with a new client. Your energy and confidence will set the tone—literally and emotionally.
Because let’s be honest: clients don’t always remember the exact shade you used—but they will remember how you made them feel.
So, when someone says “No warmth,” don’t just take it at face value. Dig deeper. Pull out pictures. Compare tones. Ask what they see versus what they mean.
More often than not, “no warmth” really just means “no brass.”
Clients usually want to avoid harsh, brassy orange or gold tones, not necessarily all warmth. In fact, completely removing warmth can leave the hair looking flat, dull, or even too gray. And unless you’re achieving a very clean lift, raw lightened hair without any controlled warmth rarely flatters anyone’s skin tone.
So How Do You Incorporate Warmth Without Creating Brass?
This is the art of formulation- adding in just enough controlled warmth to keep the hair looking rich, dimensional, and flattering, without tipping into brassy territory.
Let’s look at the different types of warmth that are NOT brassy:
Sandy:
This tone is incredibly flattering on most people and works beautifully across a wide range of natural levels. Its versatility makes it a go-to for creating that effortless, sun-kissed, beachy look.
The secret? It’s all in the lift.
To achieve this glowing, rich result, aim to lift higher and gloss lower with warmth. That combination creates depth, dimension, and a luminous finish that looks natural and elevated.
For this tone, your ideal lift is a level 9 yellow, bright enough to keep the end result clean, but warm enough to reflect light beautifully.
A gorgeous gloss combo using Redken Shades EQ could include:
✨ 08GG
✨ 09GB
✨ 08V
This trio balances gold, warmth, and a touch of softness, giving the hair that radiant, beachy glow without tipping into brass.
Beige Bronde:
This tone is absolutely stunning on natural levels 6 and 7, a perfect match for clients who want dimensional brightness without the upkeep.
By creating pops of lightness with this tone, you’ll add beautiful contrast and depth while still keeping the hair healthy and strong. It’s an ideal choice for clients who want something that looks elevated but grows out gracefully.
One of the best parts? It’s super low maintenance.
As it fades, it softens naturally, keeping that lived-in, effortless look between appointments.
For best results, aim for a level 8/9 yellow lift, then gloss with:
✨ 07NB
✨ 08VG
(Redken Shades EQ)
This combo brings warmth, softness, and glow, without being brassy, making it a go-to for dimensional, wearable color.
Golden Beige:
This tone is perfect for clients with a natural level 4 or 5 who tend to fade brassy. The goal isn’t to push them too far into the “cool” category, doing so often leads to a gloss that fades in just a couple of washes, leaving the hair looking dull and lifeless.
Remember, this hair will naturally lift warm and that’s okay. The key is to work with that warmth, not against it. Giving them a purposeful tone that complements their natural undertone will always lead to better, longer-lasting results. Fighting the warmth too hard typically results in a flat, muted finish.
Aim for a level 8 gold lift. Keeping it warm enhances reflection and shine, which in turn makes the overall tone appear brighter and healthier.
A beautiful gloss for this client might include:
✨ 07NB
✨ 07VG
✨ 08GG
(Redken Shades EQ)
When you're fighting unwanted brassiness, the best approach is to drop your level and add warmth.
Yes, add warmth.
This will always neutralize brassiness more effectively than trying to cancel it out with cooler glosses. Why? Because it creates a true, balanced tone rather than relying on "canceling yellow with violet," which often leaves hair looking muddy or washed out.
The more you understand this concept, the more control you'll have over your final results. With each new glossing formula, reflect on what worked and what could be improved. Try swatches, experiment, and don’t be afraid to step outside your comfort zone.
That’s where the real learning happens.
Ready to take your color work to the next level?
If you’ve ever second-guessed a gloss formula, struggled with brassy fades, or felt unsure how to communicate tone with your clients, you’re not alone. And you don’t have to keep guessing.
🎓 The Confidence Behind Formulation: Color Decoded is your step-by-step guide to mastering tone, lift, and gloss with intention.
Inside this course, you’ll learn how to:
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Understand what your client really means when they say “no warmth”
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Formulate with purpose, not panic
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Make smarter, more effective choices with lift and tone
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Create custom formulas that last and reflect beautifully
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Trust your eye, your swatches, and your process
Whether you’re newer to formulation or just want to feel more grounded in your approach, this course is designed to build your understanding and your confidence behind the chair and beyond.
Don’t just mix color, know why it works.
Let’s decode it together.
👉 Learn more HERE
